Solo travel: Naxos, Greece
Why Naxos?
Greece is home to HUNDREDS of islands., and it can feel overwhelming trying to figure out where to go. As always…. I say it depends on what type of traveler you are! The Cyclades are home to Mykonos, Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Milos…. and many, many more islands. If you are an “Instagram traveler” or have a healthy wallet and want to be spoiled and don’t mind being with hordes of people in overly touristic yet photogenic places, then Santorini or Mykonos are likely your vibe.
But if you want a more low-key, traditional, and equally beautiful place to soak up the Greek sun, then Naxos and this post is for you! Located in the Aegean, Naxos is the largest of the 220 islands in the Cyclades.
Overview:
A summary of the vibe of Naxos
A little history
A few things to see and do, and where to stay
Naxos Town
Lasting Impression:
I want to start with the vibe and energy of Naxos before I launch into what to do, see, and some of the island’s history.
Have you ever watched the Anthony Bourdain episode on Naxos? There is an air of loneliness in the episode, and once I was on the island for a few days, I understood it, though not in a negative way. I did not feel lonely (I never do when I travel because I sincerely prefer solo traveling), but there was this feeling of nostalgia here. Perhaps it is the vast history with which you collide as you breathe in the earth, sea, sky, and sights. It’s the sense of being a tiny dot on an island where all the millennia have explored before you and will continue on after you. This feeling is carried by the winds here and swept away in the waves. The Cyclades cut straight to your heart. I have always loved feeling anonymous when I travel, but here, you may find yourself thinking you want “in” on the culture. Maybe it is the inviting people, the sunsets, or the slower pace on the island, but whatever the reason, the island makes space for you to spend time in contemplation and makes you feel as though you’ve been let in on some wildly delicious secret.
Naxos has NOT sold its soul to tourist mobs (like Santorini and Mykonos have). It has somehow managed a very specific balance of hospitality for tourism yet fully retains its agrarian, historical, and cultural roots. Proud, friendly, and inviting, Naxians want to show you their treasure island but have not let themselves fall prey to exchanging culture and tradition for tourism dollars.
I hope they never do.
Getting there:
There are two options: flight or ferry. Ferries can be canceled due to weather (and sometimes by government strikes). The most convenient way to reach Naxos is by air. It is a 30-minute (vs. several-hour ferry) flight from Athens, relatively inexpensive, and the airport is tiny, so you move through it quickly upon landing.
A little history….
Naxos enjoys loads of history and many a Greek myth written about it. It is where Zeus grew up and it’s where Theseus took King Minos’s daughter after he killed the Minotaur. The Venetians ruled over Naxos for hundreds of years, and their castle is still the main hub of Chora, or “Old Town,” the capital town of Naxos. Old Town is vibrant for tourism, yet it also feels as though you are just hanging out in the neighborhood. It has a unique and delightful energy. (and a fantastic, free museum!)..
Before Venetian rule, Lygdamis began building a temple on a small outlet connected to Chora.
It was intended to be larger than the temple for Zeus in Athens but it was never complete. Today, you can wander around the ruins and be amazed at the size of what still stands: The Portara. This doorway offers a unique view as it frames the town or the sea, depending on your orientation. Sunset is an extremely popular time to walk out to the Portara so visit in the early morning to avoid crowds (though In late May, the crowds were not bad at all).
There are over 500 churches on the island. Some are tiny chapels, and I asked both my host and a tour guide why there were so many small chapels scattered about the island. I got two different answers, but I suspect both are correct in their own way. My host said that the smaller chapels are for specific things. For example, the chapel near my apartment was where one goes if you’ve lost something. Lost your keys? Pop in and pray they are found. My fantastic tour guide, on the other hand, said that the smaller chapels were built in areas where larger churches aren’t found, and they are built to commemorate something special for a local family. Either way, I admire the reverence and access.
Things to do:
Aside from the obvious food, sun, and fun, I recommend touring the inland. I am usually NOT a “take a tour” person, but one of the best days I had during my 2 weeks in Greece was taking a tour that I booked through Get Your Guide.. (this link takes you directly to the tour/ booking). The company that provides the tour is Naxos Bus Tour and our amazing guide, Aggeliki, was very knowledgeable. We visited Demeter’s Temple, the villages of Chalki and Filoti, the Kouros statue, took a tour of the oldest church on the island (and allegedly the Balkans), and tasted olive oil at Eggeras while also getting a history lesson on how olive oil was produced prior to mechanization. Nothing beats meeting a 4th generation olive producer and enjoying her delicious spread.
Side note: Aggeliki is also an artist in addition to being a guide. She is very connected with the sea and creates marvelous paintings of the water. You can view her work on Instagram @aggelikiart.
Aggeliki explained that the Kouros statue was originally found buried in 1900 by a farmer who owned the land, but for decades, he told no one because, at that time, the British museums were collecting artifacts, and he didn’t want the statue to be removed. He finally told his grandchildren about it after WW2, and now you can take an easy walk to view the monumental statue. It was carved as one piece, but a leg broke during the process, and it was discarded in situ,
One of the stops on this tour is Chalki, an adorable little village where you can taste Citron and do a little shopping. I stopped by a sweet store run by a mother and daughter who create beautiful things for the home. Their store, Eros Y Alma is worth visiting!
You will also stop to view the marble quarry where the highly prized Naxian marble is sourced. The half-day tour is packed with activity and sights and I can’t recommend it enough.
Where to stay:
The neighborhood of Grotta was a PERFECT home base for my week in Naxos. It is a 6-minute walk down to the main port area, just up the hill from Chora.
There is a nearby market, coffee shop, a sea view and it is quiet. My stay at Homer’s House via AirBnB was exceptional. The hosts picked me up from the airport (after 18 hours and four flights; this was such a welcome benefit) and treated me like family. The apartment has a delightful terrace and the apartment is perfectly appointed with all you need. Whether you are able to stay in this exact apartment or not, this neighborhood can’t be beat. Close to everything but far enough away that you achieve respite.
A terrific island to visit for solo female travelers
I should mention that I felt extremely safe in Naxos (in all of Greece, really, but here in particular). As a solo female traveler, feeling safe is a high priority, and if you are nervous about traveling alone, I recommend Naxos as a destination. At one point, I mentioned to my guide/new friend how the men in Greece/ on Naxos do not ogle at women. Not once did I feel men looking at me (you know what I mean), and it really stood out to me! I have traveled to many places and have never experienced this sort of …. ambivalence (in a good way). My friend agreed and told me it is definitely cultural (the opposite of some cultures). It may seem a weird thing to have observed, but if you have traveled alone, you understand why this made a big impression on me.
I hope this article gave you some insight into the island. Enjoy the cheap gyros when you go, and bring your sunscreen!
Antio!
P.S.- this organic sunscreen is my go-to! You will need it in Greece!
