Cobblestones and the Colosseum
*please note: I have a few affiliate links in this article. When you click on the link and book or purchase through the affiliate company, I get a tiny little commission. Teeny tiny … like Tea-Cup Chihuahua tiny but I sure do appreciate your support! There is no extra cost for you! Affiliate links help to keep this blog up and running! I ONLY include links to products or services that I believe in.
Welcome back!
Today I’m taking you with me as I walk down a cobblestoned memory lane in Day 2 of my Solo Trip to Italy!
Part 1 ended with my cozy evening in as I wrapped up my first day in Rome with rest and recuperation from a long travel day. After a terrific sleep, I was ready to tackle my first real day on the streets of Rome. Day 2 was all about ruins, masterful building, crowds, heat and awe. But first, breakfast. I am not a breakfast eater but definitely a coffee drinker and as it turns our, Italians aren’t all that big on breakfast either (the Italians are my tribe!). You’ll not find waffles, eggs, bacon (American breakfast) but you will find pastry. A plethora of gorgeous and delicate pastry! I took Andrea’s advice and walked one block down from the apartment to La Fiorentina 1942 and instantly fell in love. It’s a lively place full of croissant, pastries and goodies beyond a carb lovers wildest dreams. This pace definitely exists in my version of heaven (take note of that, God. TIA). This place has been in business since 1942 and they are dialed in. Aside from breakfast, they serve lunch and dinner and are open until midnight. I will visit this place many times over the course of the next few days because sometimes a girl needs mini berry pies and double chocolate mousse cake bites at random times!
I step up to the counter to order a Cappuccino and a pastry, completely forgetting that you mentally make your selection and then place your order at the register first. From there you present your receipt at the counter and the servers quite speedily whip up your Cappuccino and pastry order.
I will write more about the coffee culture in Italy on my tips page but a quick rundown is that most Italians drink their coffee standing at the counter and then they move on to wherever they are headed next (at least this is what I observed). A typical coffee run is fairly literally, on the run. Of course, some sit and linger at a table but this costs an extra euro in many establishments. I choose to linger because I am a people watcher, I’m enjoying slow-travel and I need to gather myself before braving the Metro. Loads of high schoolers stop here before heading to school and they have a bite, partake in the usual teenage shenanigans and somewhat shockingly….. cigarettes. I’m not talking one or two kids smoking, I’m talking a full embrace of the smoking culture in Italy (the airport in Rome literally has glass “smoking rooms” inside the airport… they are ….committed).
Simply divine way to start your day
My pastry was a delight as was the Cappuccino. After my people watching and caffeine injection, it was time to get moving. I walked across the street to one of Rome’s largest indoor markets in order to grab a snack for later and I couldn’t believe the array of goods in this market! Butcher shop stalls (several), fruit stalls, home goods, groceries of all sorts, seafood stalls… it was really incredible to walk through and see the difference between a large market in Italy and our markets back in the States (theirs are better).
From there I navigated to the entrance of the Metro, took a deep breath and told myself I would figure this out, no problem.This excerpt from my Tips: Italy page sums it up:
I have mentioned that I am from a tiny town, right? In tiny towns we don’t have taxi’s much less busses, trains and metros. We have our own two feet, bicycles, motorcycles, cars. and occasional horse. All of which we are personally in control of. To say that getting on the Metro is intimidating for me (was intimidating) is a fairly large understatement. Before Italy, I had been on the subway exactly once: in New York and guided by my friend who lives there. It smelled like pee (Luckily this was not the case in Rome).
The ticket machines are easy to find (just past the entrances) and you can choose if you want a ticket which entitles you to one ride to one location (if I recall this option was 1.50 euro), a 24 hour pass which entitles you to unlimited Metro and city bus rides until midnight on the day of purchase (7 euro.. cheap!), there’s also a 72 hour ticket as well as other options , depending on your needs. I purchased the 1 day ticket because it was so inexpensive and figured I would likely use the Metro more than once in this time frame. *Note: you can also buy tickets at any Tabacchi (tobacco) shop in the city. Go to my Tips:Italy page for more information .
The machine spits out my ticket and it’s game time! I watch others scan their tickets and the glass partitions quickly open (and just as quickly shut to discourage more than one person at a time). I notice that some tickets look different than mine and I assume these are locals with a long- term Metro pass. I step up to scan my ticket…. it’s a no go. Nothing happens. Nada! So I try to insert the ticket as this seems to be the secondary option. The machine doesn’t like my ticket and doesn’t take it. I’ve been rejected.I step back after a few frustrating scan attempts and watch others go through. Perhaps I am doing this wrong. Nope. I am doing what they are doing but it’s not working. At this point I’m thinking that I had a valid reason to be hesitant about utilizing the Metro and that my worries were coming true.
When suddenly….
A man appears and sees my utter confusion. He tries to scan and/ or insert my ticket and it’s just not going to happen at this point. He says we should go to the booth where Metro employees are and ask for help but of course, the booth is unmanned. He tells me “stand right behind me, really close and come through with me after I scan my ticket. Stay VERY close though”. I follow his lead and we go through together. He saved the day! He then tells me “ well, now your ticket will be good for longer because this first ride didn’t count. Just make sure you ask for help from an employee if that happens again”. I thank him profusely and we strap on our masks. At the time of this writing, masks are still required on public transportation but all other Covid restrictions have been lifted.
A woman standing next to me asks me if I speak English, I do, I say.“Can you tell me if this goes to the Termini Station?” (Rome Termini is the main train station in Rome. It’s where you catch most of the high speed trains)
I told her I didn’t know, I’m 99% sure it does, but we were about to find out! We laugh as the Metro car approaches. It’s busy today because June 2nd (the day before) was a national holiday (Republic Day) and today is Friday which makes this a long weekend for residents. This is an important fact as you will read about a little later in the story.
Turns out that yes, this line goes to Termini Station but I know that I will be walking to the Colosseum from there (or you can grab a taxi or bus) because the Metro doesn’t go anywhere near the ancient ruins. Apparently they have tried but kept finding artifacts so they ceased extension (good call!). I can now report back to all of you Metro-averse travelers out there… it was easy, fast, cheap and a big time saver. While I needed help with my first ride due to the ticket issue, subsequent rides went smoothly and I can attest, it’s nothing to be intimidated by. You just need to figure out Line A vs. Line B and where they stop. If you are a Metro newbie like me, pay attention to which side of the Metro car is going to open at your stop (there’s usually is an electronic ticker board that alerts you to the next stop and an arrow indicating which side of the car you will be exiting from). It’s important because if it’s busy, you can be quite crammed in like a sardine and people may be blocking your exit (and people will be rushing in simultaneously at each stop).
Two key words to know :
“ Scusi” which means excuse me and can mean you are about to ask a question or you need to get by. The more appropriate word in this situation is “Permesso” which is a polite way of asking someone to get outta your way because you need to get around them.
Once you arrive at Termini, you can grab a city bus (make sure you validate your bus ticket once you jump on or you can face a big fine. There are machines onboard the busses so validating is easy). I opted to walk because I had extra time and I think walking is the best way to see a city. I moved in the general direction of the Colosseum but having given myself ample time before my reservation, I chose to meander the streets. There’s a lot of shopping in this area (high end) but that’s not my jam so, I sweated my way through a circuitous route to the Colosseum.
By now you might be wondering why I placed the word cobblestones in the title of this journal page. Cobblestone streets are everywhere in Rome. They are about 4”x4” (?), square and are very uneven. Even sober people look drunk when walking the streets if not paying attention! This is why I opted to wear tennis shoes with my skirt even though it drastically lowered my fashion points. The cobblestones are no joke!
Nerd Alert!: if you want to read up on the history of the cobblestones in Rome, check out this site…..it’s pretty interesting history!
As you may recall, I booked this trip very last minute. I somehow lucked out and was able to get a skip-the-line ticket to the Colosseum, Palentine Hill and the Roman Forum through a tour company. This was the only day and time available all week so I really was LUCKY. This particular ticket was for the Colosseum (with floor and underground pass to see the areas recently opened up where the gladiators were held). Once your guide escorts you to that area, you are free to roam on your own (my favorite).
*Pro-tip: During the busy summer months, you absolutely should make reservations for popular sites well in advance if at all possible or you risk having to wait in line….. and these are not short lines, my friends! They are loooong and seem to always be in the blazing sun. Buzz kill! Also, you cannot bring luggage or large bags into the Colosseum. There are several bag storage facilities located nearby. This one seems affordable .
I booked through Viator ( a subsidiary of TripAdvisor) for my tour and here’s where that whole national holiday thing comes into play….as I was enjoying my late morning walk-about, I received a call from the tour guide. She was so sorry to inform me that she was not able to procure my ticket. She had a regular skip-the- line ticket for me but it didn’t include the ground level areas. She apologized and explained that all of those tickets were sold within 15 seconds of going on sale due to the holiday and large crowds (she refunded me the difference the same day). I do not think this is the norm and was a bit of a fluke because of the long weekend so, I still recommend booking through them. The specific tour company was “ANCIENT AND RECENT” so you can look for their service when you are on Viator. I was admittedly bummed but I was also really happy that I was still going to see the Colosseum! That’s travel for ya, we need to roll with whatever comes our way.
After much meandering (and near heat stroke), I arrived at a park across the main street that borders the Colosseum. I found a spot in the shade after filling up my water bottle from one of the many spigots found in the city and enjoyed my first view of the towering structure from afar. WOW!
I still had extra time to kill before meeting the guide to retrieve my ticket, so I wandered the Colosseum grounds. There’s not a lot of shade there so tourists were seeking out any sliver of shade they could find. This included areas that had fencing around them because original columns lay on the ground and were being protected by said fencing. Some tourists stepped over the fencing to steal the shade of the trees. I say steal because over time this disregard for ancient ruins will eventually steal the opportunity for others to view it as it will degrade from people’s butts sitting on the fallen columns. The Polizia , clearly annoyed (as was I!) honked their horns at the OBLIVIOUS tourists multiple times before they finally had to walk over and kick people out. I saw this happen over and over again… I simply have no patience for those who cannot use common sense and realize that the fencing means something…. the preservation of ancient artifacts, for instance. Grrrrr!
I found some shade in the shadow of the behemoth Arch of Constantine where others were also looking for respite from the sun. I asked a woman to take a photo of me, which she did but I sort of wish she had more photographic compositional sense because the photo is a bit of a let down with not much of the Colosseum in view. Bummer.
I told ya’… negative fashion points here but I don’t care! And also.. holy crap! I’m at THE COLOSSEUM!!!!!!😱 Double also… this photo is proof that I inherited my mother’s knees.
A woman from Texas asked if anyone spoke English. I do, I say (recurring theme). She needed help finding her tour company so I helped her find the instructions in her email. It was nice to be on the helping end this time around! As I was enjoying the shade I noticed a beautiful bride and her new husband coming towards the Arch. He was dressed in his military best and all I could think about was how hot that guy must have been as he picked her up and twirled her around while their photographer clicked away. As the photo session wrapped up, about a dozen local female bystanders began singing what must have been a traditional wedding song of blessing. The bride was beaming brighter than the summer sunshine and I could tell this serenade was special. It meant something more than a basic “congratulations’”. Some of the women had tears of joy in their eyes for this bride they did not know and everyone in the crowd had a wistful smile. Moments like those are so wonderful! A crowd of complete strangers connected by mutual joy for the new beginnings that the bride and groom are embarking on. It’s a snapshot in time…..where everyone feels utterly happy for someone else. No one is thinking about politics, the heat, or other worries. We all were just sharing in the bliss! That is the stuff of life! Wonderful. Moto Belissima!
The moment we’ve all been waiting for……
I entered the Colosseum. This is an art teacher’s dream come true. I had arrived within the ancient walls and could feel the magnitude of history rush through my body. Things get a little hazy from here because I was in such awe and was so excited to be there, I almost couldn’t focus 🤣
This is one of the first things you see as you enter this section of the Colosseum. It’s your intro to their craftsmanship.
I bypassed and tuned out all of the tourists who were getting their Instagram-on, and completely immersed myself in the wonder. As I walked these worn and ancient passageways, I was utterly dumbfounded with the multitude of layered building materials and skill required to build this colossal structure (and here I thought the fence I built all by myself last summer was an epic accomplishment Ha!). The ancient Romans were MASTER builders (they invented concrete, after all) and seeing the chisel marks, the thin, stacked bricks, concrete, arches and columns, one can get a sense for how this place was and is a keystone for all that came after it.
You can see the area beneath what would have been the ground. This is where animals and Gladiators awaited their doom.
Example of the layers of construction materials used
I very much recommend that you take your time when you visit the Colosseum. Look carefully at the nooks and crannies that divulge the secrets of the past. If you are too focused on capturing the perfect photo for your social media, you’ll miss being there and you might end up mooning the crowds of tourists while you get that perfect photo.
Huh? Let me explain…
There was a decent breeze on this afternoon (a blessed occurrence every afternoon I was in Rome. The breeze makes you feel like you can conquer anything because it is a mini-rescue from the heat). A woman in her twenties was leaned over the railing, selfie stick in hand, smiling for her photo when the breeze kicked up just a notch. She had a light, flowy and short skirt on and the breeze seized its moment, grabbed that skirt and flipped it up. Her bum was now in full view (thong underwear was not helpful). A group of tourists were simultaneously walking by and I saw a guy about her age look surprised and then he gasped and tried to hide his eyes (to his credit, I appreciated the fact that he was trying to avert his gaze). The girl had NO CLUE she had just full-mooned a group of passersby. The fact that she didn’t even know this happened was extra funny. Moral of the story: wear granny panties if you have this type of skirt on and have a friend watch your back (but also… just remember to make your visit more than a post on social media. I am on my soapbox about it because it’s so important to focus on what’s in front of you and not on how good it will look to others when you share it later).
I did three laps around the Colosseum because I wanted to enjoy the first impression, have a look at the preservation of certain areas and lastly, the details of construction.
Be sure to check out the top level where artifacts are housed in glass cases. Jewelry, pottery and other odds and ends are on view as well as some fantastic architectural examples of the different column styles used, etc.
Corinthian Column Capital . One of 3 capital styles used.
There is a gift shop (of course) that you can peruse and I suggest grabbing this book while there. It’s inexpensive and contains the basics of what you need to know.
The most curious thing about the Colosseum is the dichotomy of it all. On one hand, it’s a wonderful example of what humans are able to accomplish and on the other hand.. it’s a terrible example of what humans can accomplish.
The Colosseum is an architectural achievement of great measure but it is also a place where humans and animals were sacrificed, more or less, in the most violent of ways. I find it so strange that we can find entertainment value in atrocious activities where harm and pain are being doled out in front of thousands of people who are there to spectate. What does it say about human nature that we are capable of such greatness and simultaneous destruction?
I will leave you to ponder this for now…. Next week I will take you to the Roman Forum and Palentine Hill and I will tell you about my MAJOR mistake so that you’ll be sure to avoid it (honestly, it was so dumb and I’m sure you have more common sense than I do).
If you aren’t yet able to travel to Rome and are curious, OR you are gearing up for your trip and want to have a little more knowledge before heading out, I will include a guide to the history of the Colosseum and Forum in my Historical Sites page so that you can get a lite art history lesson in.
A quick and unfinished watercolor study in my travel journal inspired by my day at the Colosseum. I like to end my day with a quick painting session to pair with my written account.
Thanks for reading! I am excited to share more with you next week. And remember… wear granny panties if it’s windy and your skirt is short!
Ciao for now!
Lindsey
Miles walked: 12
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*please note: I have a few affiliate links in this article. When you click on the link and book or purchase through the affilate company, I get a tiny little commission. Teeny tiny … like Tea-Cup Chihuahua tiny but I sure do appreciate your support! There is no extra cost for you! Affiliate links help to keep this blog up and running! I ONLY include links to products or services that I believe in.
